No longer synonymous with the straw-chewing rural village idiot or the al-fresco imbiber of no fixed abode, cider finds itself in the midst of an esteemed renaissance.
Driven by the pluck of a certain Irish brand and dovetailing deftly with a consumer thirst for all things local and artisan produce, sales of cider are defying Isaac Newton’s apple-inspired laws of gravity and craft cider is, much like craft beer, capturing the imagination of more adventurous drinkers everywhere.
Not that you should really compare the two drinks. Because cider tends to be drunk in pints, people associate cider with beer but, in its making and its flavours, cider has much more in common with wine.
Cider has historically been hailed as the English Champagne and the cider-making process is very similar to wine (simply swap the grape juice for apple juice and you’ve pretty much nailed it). Both use different varieties of fruit for fermentation and both are adorned with various levels of acidity, and vary in character from dry to sweet.
Cidre Breton, 5%
While Britain is brimming with thousands of stunning ciders (Aspall Imperial Vintage Cyder being a particular fancy favourite; £3.09, 70cl), we’ve thumbed our nose in the direction of domestic cidermakers and opted for a French cider.
Yes, that’s right dear Telegraph readers. The French. Not content with killing our Princess (allegedly), the French also make ciders that are tres magnifique (good). One of which is Cidre Breton from Brittany, land of stripy jumpers and crepes.
More rounded and approachable than Normandy ciders, this is a hazy, partally-filtered, soft full-flavoured cider, made from a range of fully ripened Breton varieties and even carry its own AOC for the region.
And if you’re under any doubt that this is an artisan product then just take a look at the label – adorned with a picture of some Breton peasants seated on barrels sampling the goods and taking a break from the 17-hour working week.
Available from Apple Jack Trading Company, 1,000ml, £3.85
Cider Brandy, 42%
Pouring brandy over the Christmas pud and setting it alight is a pyromaniacal pleasure at this time of year, and has been for centuries. Charles Dickens is amongst those to pay tribute to the tradition in his treasured tome A Christmas Carol, most rewardingly adapted by the Muppets. If you too choose to take on this ritual, then you might fancy using something better than the Napoloeon cooking gear at the back of the cupboard. Quality liquid improves a pudding. That said, don’t use the Somerset Cider Brandy, this is a spirit that should be sipped and savored.
The great thing about cider brandy is it’s British, not French. That is to say, you’ll be supporting something close to home if you chose to sip this instead of Cognac over the festive break. There’s plenty of heritage, with record showing the British practice of making cider brandy dates back to the 1600s and the Somerset Cider Brandy company has embraced this legacy adding a touch of modern magic to make award-winning liquid.
The apples used are taken from the Somerset orchards, most from the producer’s 150 acre land, and the blending of the juice is taken on by a team with 50 years of experience. It takes seven tons of cider apples to fill one sherry butt (500 litres) of cider brandy, so it’s not cheap to produce. The apple juice is fermented and distilled and has to be rested in the barrels for a minimum of three years, and it’s the oak that lends the liquid its rich, dark colour while also rounding out the harsh edges of the spirit. A rigourous, time-consuming process but the spirit retains its rustic and rural character throughout.
They bottle Somerset Royal at three years old, Somerset Five Year Old, Somerset Ten Year Old and a small amount of Somerset Alchemy at 15 years old.
The ten year old is a stunning sip, there’s something of the Christmas pudding about it, with spicy plums around the gums and a touch of figs in there too. Loads of lovely warming winter flavours and aromas.
£36.35, from The Whisky Exchange
Chateau du Breuil Pommeau, 18%
Last but not least is this appley aperitif from the heart of the Pays d'Auge. A blend of young Calvados and apple juice, it packs a bit of a punch and is the Nomandy equivalent of Pinneau de Charentes. Most Calvados producers make a Pommeau yet it is seldom seen on these shores. Best drunk chilled either straight from the fridge or over ice.
£14.75, 75cl, from Apple Jack Trading Company
Advent calendar day 1: festive beers
Advent calendar, day 2: Armagnac
0Advent calendar, day 4: martini
Advent calendar, day 5: dark beers
Advent calendar, day 6: tequila
Advent calendar, day 7: non age specific whisky
Advent calendar, day 8: banana cocktail
Advent calendar, day 9: three wise drinks
Advent calendar, day 10: three low-alcohol beers
Advent calendar, day 11: three American whiskies
Advent calendar, day 12: a morning-after pick-me-up
Advent calendar, day 13: spirit-aged beers
Advent calendar, day 14: a cocktail to settle your stomach
Advent calendar, day 15: beer with cheese
Advent calendar, day 16: a hot sloe gin cocktail
Advent calendar, day 17: an eggnog style cocktail
Advent calendar, day 18: beer can turkey
Advent calendar, day 19: beer can turkey
Advent calendar, day 20: three orange liqueurs
Still thirsty? Buy the Thinking Drinkers' books!
Boutique Beer: 500 of the World's Finest Craft Brews by Ben McFarland
See the Thinking Drinkers perform at the Soho Theatre, London this December. For tickets, click here
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